It was pouring rain on shopping day. Phoenicians are always grateful for rain because we live in perpetual drought conditions. Rain, however, makes us drive badly and complain a lot. I was grumpy on the way to the farmers’ market and even grumpier when I got there and the whole parking lot was flooded. I made the kids wait in the car while I waded through the muck and hurried to buy what I could for $25. Due to unforeseen circumstances, we had to cut our food budget for the week in half. I thought I had $6 left, so I stopped at my favorite vendor to pick up a couple things I needed for the boys’ lunches. I hurried to the line with my baby carrots, a head of lettuce and the first pepper I’d seen in months. She rang me up and the total was $6.50. I looked in my purse and realized I only had three dollars. “I only have enough for the carrots, ” I said, mentally refiguring the week’s lunches and wondering what I was going to do with so little food. “Don’t worry about it. You can give me the $3.50 next time. You’re a good customer.” I thanked her and shuffled away, a little embarrassed.
It seems like such a little thing, but on a bad day, it can change everything. While I hate the idea of being a consumer, when she said I was a good customer I felt like I do when my boss says I’m a good teacher or my mom says I’m a good mom. Yay! I’m good at something!
I’ve heard a lot of people talk about “community” at farmers’ markets. For me, community has always been a little abstract. Sure, I chat with people in line, and say hi to people I know, but I’d never really considered it a community. But when my farmer saw I was having a rough day, she helped me out and made me feel better. The community part of a farmers’ market isn’t just socializing in line and swapping recipes, it’s about personal transactions versus business transactions. Plenty of nice people work at Safeway and many of them know my name, but they’re not invested in the products they sell and, quite frankly, much of what they sell is unhealthy and even dangerous. If they were acting on their concern for their customers, they’d tell them not to buy cigarettes and cured meat. It’s a business transaction–a friendly, pleasant one, but a strictly commercial one nonetheless.
I got to the car as fast as I could, envisioning a screaming toddler, a fight and maybe a little blood. I got there and they were cuddled in the back seat listening to music on the iPod. This is when I told myself that everything is going to be just fine. And I really believed it.
This week I was pretty conscious of making dinners that could be worked into lunches the next day. It was also a busy week, so we stuck to mostly quick, simple dinners.
I had two huge packages of spare ribs from our steer. Spare ribs are disgusting and I didn’t know what to do with them, so I threw them in a pot and simmered them gently for about 8 hours. I went to Whole Foods and had the guy slice sirloin paper thin and then went to Lee Lee Market and got Vietnamese rice noodles. Then I made Pho! It was fun and delicious. I forgot the sliced lime . . . and have vowed to never do that again.
Next time, I’m going to get a whole wheat baguette from Frogs Organic Bakery (in Tucson) at the Downtown market. It’s the best whole wheat bread I’ve ever had. It would be lovely with the soup.
I found out the trick to great red cabbage coleslaw: after you shred the cabbage, put it in a huge bowl and sprinkle it with a decent amount of salt. Then you let it sit an hour or two and press out the water. Red cabbage is a little too crunchy, so this method makes it the perfect texture.
I got a buddha’s hand at Whole Foods last week and, since the rind is especially fragrant and flavorful, I decided to candy it. I left much of the inside of the fruit, which is an only slightly bitter pith. There was a little bit of fruit in there, but not much.
I used this recipe, but added Grand Marnier to the syrup. If you don’t have super fine sugar, just put it a grinder for a couple seconds.
We have a lot of oranges from the front yard, too. I’ll juice them and candy some more peels. At an Afghan engagement party we went to last week, they served Persian rice with little slivers of candied orange peel. It was heavenly.
I peeled the oranges with a potato peeler and then squeezed them for orange juice (they were squirty). I made candied orange peel using the same syrup. Instead of tossing these in sugar and drying them, I’m storing them in the syrup to use in everything. I made mashed sweet potatoes with butter, cream, brown sugar, and about a 1/4 cup of the orange peel with syrup. I thought it was amazing, but the boys disagreed.
For the boys, I threw together some leftover pasta, tomatoes and spinach and served with grated parmesan. They were quiet and they ate it, so it must have been okay.
For Pat, I just threw some garlic, shallots and pancetta (from Trader Joe’s because it’s in little tiny cubes) in a skillet with some olive oil, then added several chopped tomatoes and then some spinach. I ladled this mixture over some hot polenta (very easy to make). I put the leftover polenta in a rectangular tupperware so I could slice it the next night and fry it. My favorite thing to do with leftover polenta, though, is to pour buttermilk over it and sprinkle it with lots and lots of pepper.
I’m trying to lose a few pounds, so I’m avoiding sugar like the plague. I was dying for something sweet, though. I made the panna cotta with Splenda (I know, it’s probably really terrible for you, but you don’t know my desperation). They were lovely–especially with a little candied orange peel on top, of which I only took a microscopic bite.
Tuesday: roasted pumpkin tartlets and shaved fennel salad
I have taken to roasting big winter squash whenever I have the time and storing it in tupperware in the fridge. I used about three cups of pumpkin mixed with about 1/2 cup of minced shallots, 8 duck eggs and a cup of cream to make these little tarts. I seasoned it with a little nutmeg, salt and pepper. Since I used frozen pie crust, it only took about 5 minutes to throw together. I made mine with no crust, and it was so good I hardly missed it.
They were perfect for lunch boxes the next day.
Alice Waters’s Shaved Fennel Salad from the cookbook Pat got me for Christmas, The Simple Art of Food:
It was a pain to get the fennel shaved thin. She recommends a mandoline, but that wasn’t getting it thin enough, either. Her mandonline probably works.
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and sliced as thin as you can get it
2 tablespoons lemon juice and zest from 1/4 lemon
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper
Whisk the olive oil into the other ingredients and toss with fennel.
Wednesday: shrimp seasoned and baked (in bacon drippings), fried polenta, spinach and bacon salad
I made the best banana bread of my career for dessert. I always use this Cooking Light recipe that I’ve adapted to make it higher in fat and higher in deliciousness. They use a brown butter glaze if you’re interested. I decided just to make the bread taste good and then put ICE CREAM on it!!!!!!!
Banana Rum Bread:
- 5 tablespoons butter, softened
- 3/4 cup packed high quality dark brown sugar
- 3 medium/large ripe bananas, sliced
- 1/2 cup sweet cream buttermilk
- 3 tablespoons walnut
- 3 tablespoons amber or gold rum
- 2 large eggs
- 6 ounces all-purpose flour and 3 ounces cake flour
- 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- Baking spray
- Preheat oven to 350°.
- Melt 5 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add brown sugar and bananas; sauté 6-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; cool 10 minutes. Place banana mixture in a large bowl. Beat with a mixer at medium speed until smooth.
- Combine buttermilk and next 3 ingredients (through eggs). Weigh or lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Combine flour, baking soda, and salt. Add flour mixture and buttermilk mixture alternately to banana mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture; beat at low speed just until combined. Scrape batter into a 9 x 5-inch metal loaf pan coated with baking spray. Bake at 350° for 1 hour or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out with moist crumbs clinging. Cool for 10 minutes in pan on a wire rack. Remove bread from pan, and cool on wire rack.
Thursday: two ten minute dinners
For the boys, I boiled some einkorn pasta and tossed it with two cans of tuna and 2/3 of a jar of tomato sauce. They love it and it takes 12 minutes to make. For Pat, who didn’t get home until 8:30, I thawed some black eyed peas from New Year’s Day. Also ten minutes.
Friday: sausage, scarlet runner beans and candied butternut squash (I replaced most of the sugar with good dark brown sugar)
Tomorrow is a milestone for our youngest son: he’ll be eating lunch at school from now on. He’ll be eating at school for the next fifteen years. This will help shape his attitudes about food, eating and socializing. Unfortunately, for most of these years, he’s going to learn to scarf down what he can in ten minutes and shout to his friends above the din of the school cafeteria. He’ll learn that food should be cold and fast and that most people eat it out of plastic packages.
We spend a great deal of time and energy discussing state standards, test scores, accountability, teacher quality and safety, yet we barely give a nod to issues about food and health. This is in the face of an obesity epidemic and the likelihood that our children will not have a longer life expectancy than our own. We can’t divorce children’s health from our attitudes about eating. Food is a contributor to health–good and bad–and therefore should be approached as seriously as immunizations and safety. We say we want our children to be healthy, yet we avoid the very thing that could have enormous, lasting effects on their health: teaching them to eat in a way that keeps them happy and healthy.
I often walk through my eldest son’s cafeteria at lunch time and it’s an assault on the senses. The noise is almost unbearable, I can never find the kids I know in the huge, packed in crowd, with kids alternately standing, walking, waiting in line and squirming in their seats. Last month my son got in trouble for throwing a handful of ketchup soaked tater tots. I was completely mortified. It was entirely his fault, I know. But I also wonder if he were eating in a calm, relaxed environment with proper teacher supervision, wether he’d be able to control such impulses. I’ll probably never find out.
My littlest, however, will start his school lunch experience in such a place. When I walk into his classroom at lunch, I see twenty preschoolers sitting in a sunny room at little wooden tables with silverware and green place mats. They chatter quietly while the teachers visit with them and remind them to maintain good manners and polite conversation. The room is so quiet, I can whisper to the teacher twenty feet away and she can hear me.
It’s hard to know, however, if this experience will be drowned out by the nerve wracking cafeteria experiences of the following ten or twelve years.
It’s not easy to teach kids to eat slowly and mindfully, but we could at least try. In most schools, lunchtime means herding hundreds of kids into a giant, cold, artificially lit cafeteria, getting them fed as quickly as possible and herding them back out for a few minutes of exercise. Teachers are expected to skip lunch and patrol the chaos–they rarely get a chance to enjoy a lunch break themselves.
We are missing a great opportunity to teach kids how to enjoy food and conversation. We are missing an opportunity to show them how adults eat lunch. And most of all, we are missing an opportunity to keep them healthy.
We should stop thinking of eating as something we need to hurry up and get done so we can get to the next thing. Last month, I was working with the kids on the school’s Wellness Council. We were in the kitchen making roasted cauliflower and cookies. The kids loved washing and chopping the vegetables, mixing batter and watching through the window of the oven. When I asked them to smell the mint and the ginger, they did so eagerly–and often just popped in their mouths. While we waited for the cookies to be done, one kid said to me, “You know, cooking takes a really long time.” This not only cracked me up, but it also made me think about kids’ attitudes about food. Most kids think food should be ready instantly. You just open a package and you eat. It’s high time we re-educate them. Teach them to cook, let them watch us in the kitchen, feed them food, wether at home or school, that we’ve prepared with love. Teach them to slow down and enjoy the day.
Here’s what we ate this week. We spent $249 last week so we spent under $200 this week.
I know. What was I thinking with the sardines? It sounded French and I want to start using sustainable fish. So sue me.
Sunday: white bean ragout w/toast
Moroccan Venison Shepherds Pie
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 pounds venison hindquarter,
cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon roasted ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups beef broth
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/3 cup raisins
3 tablespoons honey
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, divided
1 cup frozen green peas
4 cups sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium high heat. Sprinkle venison with cumin and salt. Add venison to the pan and brown for about 1 minute on each side. Remove venison from the pan. Add onions and saute for 3 minutes. Add garlic for about 30 seconds, then add the tomato paste. Stir well.
Add broth to the pan. Bring to a boil, scraping pan to loosen the browned bits. Stir in olives, raisins, honey, ground red pepper, turmeric, and one half of the cinnamon. Add venison back to the pan. Reduce heat, and simmer 30 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the peas.
Meanwhile, place sweet potatoes in a pot of boiling water until tender and drain. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and the rest of the cinnamon. Beat potatoes with a mixer and add egg. Continue mixing until well combined. Spoon venison mixture evenly into 4 ramekins. Spread potato mixture over the venison mixture. Place ramekins on a baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or until bubbly. Serve immediately.
Tuesday: roasted potatoes and crustless duck egg quiche–quick, simple and easy
Wednesday: tofu curry with all the vegetables left in the fridge–I used a Seeds of Change jarred curry sauce I got at Sprouts on clearance for 99 cents. This took all of 10 minutes to prepare.
Our oldest turned nine today! As for the cake, he said he loved Whoppers and wanted chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting. Ikey chose the devil’s food cake recipe from Tate’s Bake Shop: Baking with Kids, he got for Christmas.
- 5 Ways to Help Kids Get Interested in Healthy Eating (healthykidschallenge.wordpress.com)
- One Lunch Lady’s Cafeteria Conversion (npr.org)
- America’s Health Disadvantage (nytimes.com)
- How a Teacher’s Anonymous Blog Exposed School Lunches (thesplendidtable.org)
- SF Public Schools Serving Healthier, Fresh Prepared Lunches from Local Provider (CBS SF Bay Area)
- Stop Subsidizing Obesity (nytimes.com)
- ‘Snobby Kids Eat Organic’ (huffingtonpost.com)
I’m still lamenting the demise of my Nikon, which quit on us a few weeks ago. These ipad pictures, especially when they’re of sausages, remind me of these faded plastic menu boards I saw on every sidewalk in Eastern Europe in the 80s. Everything is kind of the same color. The communist sausage pictures were often done in bas-relief, though. I kind of like the aesthetic, but it’s unappetizing.
The temperature has finally fallen below 80 (72 today), so we’re cooking up lots of hearty winter meals, some with shockingly high alcohol content. Here’s the last two weeks.
What we ate:
Sunday: roasted beets and potatoes, andouille sausage and cabbage deglazed with cognac
For several years, I’ve looked to The Flavor Bible, a gift from my brother, whenever I have lots of ingredients and little inspiration. This week I came across this under the “cabbage” entry:
Cabbage often has the connotation of being heavy but in the fall, we’ll make a fine chiffonade of cabbage that’s very light. I like to cut cabbage thin and roast it in a pan so that the edges just get brown because that tastes really good. We figured that out by mistake by putting cabbage into too hot a pan. After the chef raised his voice about how that is the wrong way to cook cabbage, we tasted it, and it was good! We now serve a green cabbage dish cooked this way with caraway seeds and walnuts, then deglazed with Calvados. WE also add a little cider vinegar and olive oil to finish. It is a nice, easy marriage.
-Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern (New York City)
I wasn’t about to spring for a bottle of Calvados, but I did stop at AJs and pick up several little bottles of interesting liquor. Those little airplane bottles are perfect for cooking–you get to try different flavors without spending much money. I deglazed the pan with some ginger cognac and added some chopped apples. I have never enjoyed cabbage so much.
Monday: quiche with bacon and greens, and a garden salad
Tuesday: venison chili and jalapeno corn muffins
My mom gave us some venison from her freezer–a friend had given it to her. We made the chili about half beans and half meat and it worked really well.
Wednesday: orecchiette with tuna puttanesca and a salad
We tried last week’s orecchiette again. This time I had lots of help. Pat made an amazing sauce in about 20 minutes.
Thursday: chili with squash and sweet potato muffins
I got some organic squash on sale at Safeway. It was called confetti squash or Mardis Gras squash or something. It sucked. I added it to the chili to change it up a little and it turned to mush. It thickened the chili to a gross paste and the kids wouldn’t eat it. They liked the muffins I made with all the leftover sweet potatoes, though. I used a recipe from Fast Paleo–I substituted butter for the applesauce, though. Paleolithic man didn’t know what he was missing.
Friday: Leftover chili. Again. Next time I’ll remember to freeze it.
What We Spent: We spent $224.90 on groceries. We couldn’t make it to either farmers’ market this weeks, so we had to make do. I went to Safeway twice on Friday because they had the deal where you get a $10 off coupon if you spend $75. I spend as close to $75 as I can and then go back again. With coupons, specials and the $10 offer, I saved about $100.
What We Spent and What We Ate: Last Week
Saturday: beet greens vegetable lasagna with a beet salad
I’ve been having fun using beets and beet greens in the same meals. It seems especially thrifty to me. This was good–the beet greens were great in the lasagna and the beets were lovely roasted, chilled and served on a bed of baby lettuce.
Sunday: dal and carrot salad with flatbread.
The dal was ugly, but tasted okay. I should have used red lentils. The carrot salad was delicious–the kids really liked it even though it was a little spicy.
My new favorite Lee Lee Market discovery is Masala Craft Malaysian Style Whole Wheat Roti Paratha. You simply cook them in pan on the stove like you would a tortilla. You can find it in the frozen section with the naan. I always keep frozen naan for dinner emergencies. From now on, I’ll be getting this flatbread, too.
Monday: carmelized onion and salami pizza and broccoli, brussels sprout and kale slaw
I made this pizza dough the same day–it could be made ahead, though. And it could be made for the previous night’s dinner and baked as flatbread to go with the dal. I love the idea of one dough–two meals, but I didn’t have time to actually do it. Click the dal link on Sunday’s dinner for a corainder flatbread recipe.
I’m hooked on this packaged salad mix from Costco–it has kale, brussels sprouts, broccoli and other green things in it. Skip the dressing, though–too much sugar.
Tuesday: tofu pad Thai
This Martha Stewart recipe is good, but remember to use our method of cooking tofu. You cube the tofu, put it in a bowl, pour boiling water over it and let it sit for a few minutes. Then fry it in coconut oil until it’s golden brown.
Wednesday: beef bourguignon and mizuna salad with pomegranate dressing
We’re now using the more difficult meat from our steer. This week was a few pounds of shoulder steak. Pat used a whole bottle of wine (as marinade and braising liquid) and you could taste it. Yum.
I also got another chance to use my pomegranate concentrate (I used it a couple of weeks ago for a lamb stew). This time I made a salad dressing with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, honey, honey mustard and pomegranate concentrate. The salad was just mizuna from the farmers’ market and some apples and pomegranate seeds.
Thursday: salmon and simmer sauce with couscous and broccoli—10 minute dinner
I got a free jar of Safeway Select Sesame Ginger simmer sauce at when I bought some pasta sauce. I used it for this very quick dinner. It was very, very, very sweet and high in sodium, so if I ever get it again I’ll only use a 1/4 cup or so. The kids loved it, though and Ikey ate salmon for the first time in years. I might try putting sugary syrup on other fish/meat to see if he’ll eat them.
Friday: spaghetti squash with mushrooms, roasted fennel and sausages
I layered spaghetti squash (cooked until just tender), tomato sauce, and sauteed mushrooms (two layers) in a baking dish, then topped it off with parmesan and baked it until it was brown on top.
Roasted fennel is the easiest thing ever, but it seems really special. You just slice it, put it on a cookie sheet and toss it with a little olive oil, salt and pepper (and parmesan if you want). I roast it until the edges are starting to get black–the crispy parts are the best.
What We Spent–Oops: We spent $80 at the downtown and Town and Country Farmers’ markets. We didn’t get there early enough to buy eggs, though. This made me sad. We went way over this week. Total: $247.14.
Pat says I’m a spazzy cook. I have these manic episodes in the kitchen that usually result in some minor disaster. Pie making for Thanksgiving at my mother-in-law’s was no exception.
On Thanksgiving morning, I threw together two pumpkin pies and my quince and cranberry pie was off to a good start. I poached the quince and cranberries in honey with a vanilla bean. The house smelled like heaven, but I didn’t enjoy it because I was too busy flitting about the kitchen like a circus monkey on speed. I strained the fruit and made the syrup by adding a little flour and butter to the honey. It was a little thick, but it tasted so good it didn’t matter. I proceeded to roll out my crust, put it in my pie plate and add the quince and cranberry.
And that’s when things started to go downhill. There wasn’t enough fruit to fill the giant pie pan, so I had to rush to peel and slice a few apples and mix them in. Then I put the streusel on top. . . . and realized I’d forgotten to add the syrup. I dumped out the fruit and rinsed off the streusel, removing all flavor from the quince slices. Then I put a couple layers back in the pie dish, drizzled some syrup over it and went to tend to a fist fight in the living room.
I returned and put in the rest of the fruit and sprinkled on what was left of the streusel. Then I realized I’d forgotten the syrup again.
All I could do was say, “Oh F*%#@ it” and just put the thing in the oven. Then I entered my full-on manic phase. I started doing ten things at once and I over-cooked the pie, rendering the fruit dry and rubbery.
I decided (with less than two hours until Thanksgiving dinner) I needed to make another pie. I called my mom, got directions for her Dear Abby pecan pie, doubled it and made another giant pie.
I only had half the brown sugar, so I added Muscovado sugar–a very dark, mollasesy sugar that costs a million dollars and I was saving for somthing special. I didn’t have enough corn syrup, so I added a couple teaspoons of black strap mollases. It was kind of a globby mess, but in my frenzied state, I was obliviously optimistic. I crimped the crust perfectly and turned every pecan face down (my mother always does this–she says it’s because jumbled pecans used to upset her father). Then I cooked it until it was burning slightly on top. I was a little worried that it still had some jiggle to it, but we had to leave. I put all the pies and kids in the car and ran out the door–only 10 minutes behind schedule.
After an amazing dinner, I came into the kitchen to whip the whipped cream. I was feeling nervous and I over-whipped it into near-butter. I coped with this well and my sister-in-law, Trish and I started cutting pies. I was still holding it together–even when the slices of quince pie were impossible to remove from the pie dish without falling apart. Then I heard Trish say, “The pecan pie is a little runny.” I looked over and saw the BP oil spill revisited in my pie dish. A big gush of black sludge was pouring out from under the shell. At this point I freaked. To make matters worse, the pumpkin pie was overcooked and the new pre-made crust I’d used as back-up was lousy.
Everyone looked kind of sad about the pie. It was little comfort when someone said, “The ice-cream is good.” I was Icarus, only instead of wax wings I had made experimental pie filling. And I’d crashed and burned.
Pat’s mom cheered me up and I was soon distracted by my three-year-old who was spitting on the floor because his older brothers had tricked him into eating dog food.
The next day Pat reminded me that his family loved me and didn’t care and I’d had a wonderful Thanksgiving. True, I was lucky enough to spend my Thanksgiving with a house-full of people I love. Next Thanksgiving, I’m going to make something way easier and just enjoy the day. My mother-in-law makes it look effortless and maybe someday I’ll be able to do it as well as she does. Until then, I’ve got to learn to focus on the Thankful part instead of the impress the in-laws part.
I wish I had a picture of my black sludge pie. It would make me laugh and remind me not to over-shoot the mark.
Partial pie redemption
My pie crust came out pretty good the second time I made it. I got the Cook’s Illustrated butter/lard/vodka thing down, I think. I agree with the comments advising you follow the recipe exactly. Pie crust time is no time to get creative.
I also had leftover pumpkin and chersonskaya squash filling. For Saturday morning’s breakfast I mixed the filling with a couple of eggs, a cup or so of quinoa flakes, and a little leftover sweetened condensed milk. I poured the mixture in little ramekins and baked them for about 1/2 hour at 350 degrees. It’s like pie for breakfast!
What We Ate: A dress size worth of carbs.
Saturday: spinach and pasta, salmon, roasted fennel
I made pasta for the first time. It was easy in theory, but I had to make it several times to get the dough right. Then I didn’t roll it thinly enough. But I learned a lot and I can’t wait to do it again. Lute helped me with my pasta machine, which doesn’t have a clamp to hold it in place. We were quite a pair with our arms tangled, yelling at each other (and the pasta) and cheering when each piece was done.
I tried a Martha Stewart orechiette recipe first– I really liked this photo tutorial and have imitated it here.
I also tried this pasta dough recipe. My cousin accidentally dumped olive oil in my volcano when I asked him to drizzle about a teaspoon in. I compensated by adding fewer eggs and it came out fairly good. I’ll try it again following the recipe.
As for the weird headless pictures of me–I made Luther promise not to take pictures of my face since I am a government spy. Actually, I just didn’t have any make up on and my hair looked like a rat’s nest.
Martha Stewart Orechiette Recipe that I used for noodles:
2 cups semolina flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup water, divided, plus more if needed
Pile your flours and salt on your work surface.
Then pour in 1/2 cup water. In the batch shown here, I used an egg, too. Mix in the flour until it’s all incorporated. I unknowingly created an active volcano and it erupted. There is no picture because Lute was scrambling to help scoop up the runaway egg and water. It was pretty hilarious.
You should wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let is set up for a while. The orechiette was a pain to cut, so I ended up rolling it through the pasta machine and making noodles. They were yummy with olive oil, parmesan and spinach. I’ll try the orechiette later–you can make extra and freeze it, so it’s worth the effort if you have time.
Sunday: butternut ravioli with brown butter and sage and purslane salad with walnuts, apples and fresh cranberry dressing
For the filling, I just put cream, melted butter, squash, nutmeg, salt and pepper in the baby food maker (even if you don’t have a baby, you need one of these). I used this ravioli recipe and the same basic procedure as the day before. I didn’t roll it thin enough, but it was still good. It was fun using the little ravioli cutter my mother-in-law gave me–you can see it off to the right.
For the sauce, I just browned some butter in a little saucepan and tossed in some thinly sliced strips of sage. I had to run outside and pluck off some leaves from the sage plant Pat had bought at Home Depot and planted earlier that day. Luckily, the plant is still alive. And Home Depot sage tastes good.
Monday: leftover beans and naan
I also used the leftover beans for lunch the next day. You can put anything on a tostada shell and it will taste good.
Tuesday: lamb, pomegranate and quince stew; whole wheat couscous; roasted cauliflower with mint, ginger and lime; green salad with toasted pine nuts.
I got the lamb and pomegranate idea from a Jamie Oliver recipe that I can’t get to open on his web site. Lamb and pomegranate is a common Persian pairing–and it’s amazing.
First, I dredged the lamb in a little flower and browned it and added some cinnamon, cloves, ground cardamom,
I added the meat to my crock pot with about a cup of concentrated pomegranate syrup from LeLe market. It’s cheap and worked out well. I deglazed the pan with port, and added some onion, celery, cloves, fresh ginger, 7 spice powder, and freshly ground cardamom seeds.
I topped it off with fresh pomegranate seeds and chocolate mint from the garden.
Wednesday: macaroni and cheese with bacon and carmelized onion
Pat had to bring a dish to the pot luck at work and he signed up for mac and cheese. I’ve always used my old Joy of Cooking recipe. I’ve had plenty of other good macaroni and cheeses, but I’m loyal to this one.
Joy of Cooking Macaroni and Cheese
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease a 1 1/2-quart deep baking dish. Bring to a rolling boil in a medium saucepan:
6 cups water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Add and cook just until tender:
2 cups elbow macaroni (8 ounces)
Drain and remove to a large bowl. Have ready:
2 1/4 cups grated sharp Cheddar or Colby cheese
Melt in a large saucepan over medium-low heat:
2 tablespoons butter
Whisk in and cook, whisking, for 3 minutes:
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Gradually whisk in:
2 cups whole milk (you can warm it or scald it first if you want)
1/2 medium onion, minced
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
Simmer gently, stirring often, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in two-thirds of the cheese. Season with:
salt and ground black pepper to taste
Stir in the macaroni. Pour half of the mixture into the baking dish and sprinkle with half of the remaining cheese. Top with the remaining macaroni and then the remaining cheese. Melt in a small skillet over medium heat:
1 tablespoon butter (I use more and sometimes I use olive oil)
Add and toss to coat:
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs (I use quite a bit more than this–when we have good bread, I save some especially for this purpose)
Sprinkle over the top of the macaroni. Bake until the breadcrumbs are lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.
I doubled the recipe (note the giant pot of bechemel) and Pat insisted we top it off with carmelized onions and bacon.
Thursday: Thanksgiving. I don’t want to talk about it anymore.
Friday: stuffed acorn squash
I made an easy version of a recent New York Times recipe using quinoa instead of risotto. We didn’t have any wine, so I didn’t think it was worth the effort. It only took about 15 minutes total work time and it was really good. I mixed in toasted pine nuts, dried cranberries, chopped kale (blanched and squeezed dry), carmelized onions, parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. It was good with a little drizzle of melted butter on top.
What We Spent: Not much.
We spent about $60 at the Wednesday farmers’ market and $97.88 at Sprouts. Pat spent another $20 on bacon, cheese, Barilla macaroni and a few other things. Total= about $178
- Make-Ahead Thanksgiving: Freezer-Friendly Pies (youvegottotastethis.myrecipes.com)
Good-bye to clocks ticking….and Mama’s sunflowers. And food and coffee. And new ironed dresses and hot baths….and sleeping and waking up. Oh, earth,you are too wonderful for anybody to realize you. Do any human beings ever realize life while they live it–every,every minute?
My mother could never teach Our Town. She said she couldn’t get through Act III without sobbing. I never understood why. I never taught it because I thought it was dumb. But as I was rushing to the farmers’ market, yelling at the kids to stop yelling, I heard Emily’s cemetery monologue on NPR and it brought me to tears. Now I get what my mom knows. She knows I should stop rushing around all the time. I should stop worrying. I should stop feeling put upon for having to chauffeur my kids to Boy Scouts, school functions, parties, holiday events, piano lessons. Sure, it’s hard being a mom to three young boys, but in a few short years, I won’t have to do these things anymore. I won’t have three young boys anymore–I’ll have grown men and it will just be me and Pat in the house.
Emily’s right–we need to really look at each other. I need to really look at my sons, my husband, my in-laws, my parents. I want to enjoy them and treasure the time we have together. I want to appreciate how lucky I am.
Don’t get me wrong–I’m still going to bitch and moan all the time. My friend Jamie says that it’s just in my nature to complain. But I’m going to make a concerted effort to realize life.
What we ate:
Saturday: pork chops, potatoes, three greens gratin
I cut little Yukon Gold potatoes in half, rubbed them with olive oil and put a sprig of rosemary on each cut side. Pretty. I was sick of greens, so I decided to try something different. sautéed some kale and beet greens in a little olive oil and garlic, transferred them to a baking dish, made a quick bechemel sauce, lightly covered the greens (put some under the greens, too) and topped the thing off with a generous sprinkling of grated Romano. I baked it for a few minutes to warm it up, then broiled it until the top was browned. It was perfection (okay, maybe it would be slightly better with bacon).
Sunday: chicken soup and Spinach Salad
Last week’s $50 worth of chicken made the best chicken soup in the world. My broth was a beautiful color and turned to firm Jell-O in the fridge. I know–gross–but a sure sign of a great broth. I put way too much chicken in the soup–I should have gotten another meal out of it. Same with the broth–I could have stretched it with a little more water. I was self-indulgent, so I got three $20 meals out those chickens, when I really should have gotten four of five $15 meals.
Side note: Don’t put purple carrots in your soup–they’ll turn it blue.
Monday: braised chuck steaks
We’re down to the less easy-to-cook cuts of meat from our steer. I had several chuck steaks to deal with, so I browned them (when they were at room temp), put them in my dutch oven and just covered them with water and leftover broth.
I deglazed the pan with port, but I’d use a different wine next time (it was overpowering, but that’s all I had). Then, in the same pan, I lightly sautéed some garlic, onion, carrots and celery in a little olive oil, added a can of chipotle peppers (including sauce) and put the mixture in the dutch oven.
Then it went in the oven (at 325 degrees) for three hours. It was great–a different alcohol to deglaze the pan, and some diced tomatoes would have improved it.
Tuesday: shredded beef soft tacos with tomatoes, cabbage, avocado and crema
I shredded the leftover chuck steak from the previous night for the tacos and warmed it in a little of its sauce. I saved the rest of the sauce for bean soup. I liked the tacos even better than the original braised chuck steaks.
Wednesday: lentils and naan
On nights when we’re too busy to cook, this is one of my favorite meals. I warm Tasty Bite lentils and put six pieces of frozen naan (from the Asian market) in the oven. The whole thing takes about 10 minutes and I don’t use any pans, so there’s no clean up. Phew.
Thursday: The kids ate at my moms and Pat and I had a late night dinner of America’s (The Vampiro and carne). A relief after a hard day.
Friday: bean soup
I remembered to soak the beans the night before. That’s three times in a row–I’m getting good at this planning thing. Seriously, planning the week’s meals it the KEY to cooking on a budget. You’re able to use everything. We rarely let anything go to waste.
I used the leftover broth from the chuck steaks, a box of beef broth, and a container of salsa from last week’s party. I just added all the appropriate vegetables left in the fridge (garlic, onion, tomatoes, celery, carrots). Pretty good.
My camera broke this week–hence the lack of pictures. I borrowed my dad’s old camera and took some great photos, only the turned out to be black squares. I only swore a little, because I’m trying to realize how wonderful the world is.
What we spent:
We spent about $60 on fruit and vegetables at the farmers’ markets this week. We also used about $15 worth of beef from our steer. The rest we spent at Whole Foods and Sprouts.
Total : $205
Oh–by the way. Do not EVER, EVER, EVER buy the bulk sprouted, cocao, coconut reishi at Whole Foods. It was really expensive, but I wanted to try a new porridge for breakfast. It smelled and tasted sour and bitter and horrible. I added a mountain of sugar and it was still inedible. Just thinking about it is making feel queasy. I feel bad about spending so much money on it and I also really want to meet the people who eat this.
Our neighbors had a fiesta for their granddaughter’s birthday last Saturday. The boys bounced in the bouncy castle and yelled a lot. It’s always fine until the piñatas come out—yes, plural. Each kid gets to whack at the piñata (usually strung near windows or breakables) with a big wooden paddle. Inevitably one or two kids get hit in the eye and quietly disappear into the darkness to nurse their wounds. Eventually the piñata song is sung faster so kids are not only whacking hard, but as fast as they can. When the thing breaks everyone scrambles to the floor to scoop up candy—young men stand in for the smallest children. It’s a ruthless Lord of the Flies ordeal with lots of pushing and squealing. I looked over after it was all done and my middle son was squatting on the sidelines, candy filled piñata cone clutched to his little chest, fists filled with candy and a sucker sticking out of his mouth. I couldn’t tell if he was panting or growling.
When I told my oldest he had to leave some of the candy (it was the weekend after Halloween for Christ’s sakes), he looked at me like I was crazy. “I earned this mom.” I couldn’t argue.
Then we ate giant pieces of cake and went home. The next day, we did it all again.
My in-laws came over for dinner and cake to celebrate Walter’s third birthday. This year, I didn’t make the cake. Walter saw a one at La Purisima a few weeks ago and his face just lit up. It had Dora the Explorer, her cousin Diego, Boots the monkey and Baby Jaguar. Plus, it had every color in the world not found in nature.
We all cracked up when I brought out the cake, but I have to admit, I felt a little guilty giving my kids such a large dose of food coloring in a single sitting. They survived, but there might be long-term damage (or maybe my grandchildren will turn out funny).
I didn’t get Walter a piñata this year, but he thought the previous night’s party was in his honor, so he was fine with it.
What We Ate:
Saturday: Pat didn’t get home until after the party, so I made him enchiladas with fresh tortillas (I had eaten three of Martha’s pork carnitas tacos, so I only had two enchiladas).
Sunday: chips and pomegranate guacamole, birthday tamales, beans, rice, radishes
I often buy tamales from my Martha–especially for special events. They’re some of the best I’ve ever had. If you don’t have a neighbor who makes tamales, buy them at Carolina’s.
My sister-in-law, Trish, brought Spanish rice–it’s my kids’ favorite. She shared the recipe, which she got from a friend’s (“real Mexican”) grandmother, Carmen Jimenez of Indiana. She made me promise to give credit. Gladly–it’s amazing. The notes are Trish’s. I would use the lard.
1 c. rice
3 c. chicken broth (i use vegetable broth)
4 oz. tomato sauce
1 tsp. minced onion (ew. i use a couple of cloves of garlic and onion powder instead)
1/2 tsp. garlic salt (i just use salt, b/c of the fresh garlic)
1 tbsp. lard (i use olive oil and probably a little more)
Monday: curry with long beans, carrots and shirataki noodles (here’s some more ideas for shirataki noodles just because).
My favorite spot at the farmers’ market is Maya’s Farm–everything always looks pretty. The long beans caught my eye right away. They’re to die for–you could just steam them, but they work well in a Thai curry.
Tuesday: smoked fish chowder with purslane and home-made oyster crackers
Pat got this recipe from Diana Trimble, a Facebook friend who lives in Brighton. Here’s her post:
Tonight I made smoked haddock and celery chowder with sweet corn, topped with fresh rocket (arugula). People in America can substitute smoked whitefish, available from a Jewish deli, or smoked trout. Poach it in milk with peppercorns and bay leaves while low-temp sautéing onions, celery and garlic in butter. Then do a white wine reduction on that, add a bit o flour to make a roux. Take the fish out of the milk (put it on a plate) and start adding the milk into the onion celery mix. Depending on how big your pan is, you may want to transfer the milky onion celery mixture into the milk-fish pan about half way through this blending process. Put little potatoes cut into bite size chunks in there and let it cook for oh til they’re soft. When that fish is cool, flake it off the skin. When the potatoes are cooked, chuck the flaked fish back in the soup. Add the sweet corn and just warm it all through, then after poured into bowls, scatter a handful of leaves across the top. * If you find it bland then add Encona scotch bonnet sauce.
Pat used smoked whitefish, a gallon of Organic Valley grass milk, and a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc ($6.99). He generally followed the above directions. We added a rue towards the end, but it would probably have been better just to let the potatoes cook longer. The soup separated a little–it makes me wonder if it accidentally came to a boil. It didn’t do much damage, though. It was one of the best chowders I’ve had in my life.
Lute helped pick the purslane leaves and buds off–they were the perfect touch sprinkled on our chowder. The boys loved it.
Another perfect touch was the homemade oyster crackers. This is one of the rare occasions when I use white flour.
Here’s a super-easy smoked whitefish chowder recipe to try if you’re short on time.
Wednesday: leftover chowder
Thursday: roast chicken and arugula salad with tomatoes
The chicken wasn’t done in time to feed the boys, so I boiled some Einkorn pasta, mixed in some canned mackerel (I just rinsed the skin off and pulled out the bones, making sure they didn’t see because it was totally disgusting) and jarred tomato sauce. They loved it and it’s a good way to sneak some fish into their diet.
I always roast two chickens–it’s the same amount of work and then I can make a lot of broth, chicken soup, and chicken salad.
Friday: chicken and gravy, cauliflower and braised greens
I like making gravy the next day so I don’t have to mess with the fat. I was glad I did this time–when I took the drippings out of the fridge, the fat was such a clean,perfect, bright yellow I had to save it. I’ll use it as shmaltz to fry leftover potatoes for breakfast.
I got some wonderful greens at Mayas, too. Plus I brought home some flowers for the party.
What We Spent:
Just under $220. Not bad for throwing a party.
The pasture raised chickens were a splurge. They’re called Josh’s Foraging Fowls–from Wilcox, Arizona. They were 5.99 a pound (I got ten pounds) at Double Check Ranch (at the downtown farmers’ market). Worth it, I think. The chicken was so fresh and beautiful. The necks were still on, so they’re great for broth, too. I’ll be going back to Double Check soon to try their beef–and I promised Isaac I’d get him hot dogs.
The tamales were $35. The smoked fish from Scott’s Generations was $9.00. I spent $45 at Maya’s and another $15 on fruit at other vendors. My mother-in-law got me $15 of fruit (the little seckel pears I love!) and veggies at the Wednesday Town and Country market. The rest I spent at Sprouts and Safeway.
The $12.99 tortilla press I got at Ranch Market has changed my life. My neighbor, Martha, showed me how to use it. She can turn a bag of masa into a pile of hot tortillas in under 20 minutes. I’m still working on it. But my house smells wonderful and I’ve stepped up my Mexican cooking several notches. She’s going to teach me how to make the masa, next, so I’m going to keep practicing my tortilla cooking skills.
You’ll need a non-stick surface to line the press. Martha just folds a produce bag into a cone and cuts it, making two circles just slightly bigger than the press.
You can buy masa para tortillas at any Mexican or Latino market. Take a piece of masa a little bigger than a golf ball. It should be quite moist–if it’s a little dry, you need to sprinkle some water on your hands and work it in.
Put a sheet of plastic on the press, then the ball of masa, then the other sheet of plastic.
Martha pressed the masa two or three times, making sure it was even–this was probably because my press isn’t as sturdy as hers (hers is the one shown).
Lift off the tortilla, pull off the top sheet and flip the tortilla onto your other palm. There’s a trick to sliding it onto the pan. You gently swipe your hand over the pan, keeping your palm flat. I had trouble with this. And that’s how I learned that if you mess it up and the tortilla folds in half, don’t touch it. Just bend down and blow on it and it will unfold. Real Mexican magic.
Let’s talk about the pan: you can use a skillet, but I bought this pan at Ranch Market because it’s the same as Martha’s. I thought it would improve my odds. It should be dry and hot–we heated ours over medium high heat.
Once you slide the tortilla on the pan, let it sit until it can be easily lifted–30 seconds to a minute. It should be starting to brown on the bottom. Lift the edge with your fingers and flip it. Cook on the other side for up to another minute–the bottom should be nicely browned.
Then flip it over to the first side again to finish cooking. This only takes 10-30 seconds.
Wrap them in a towel as soon as you lift them off so they’ll stay warm. You can also put them in a plastic bag on the counter.
What with all this touching of hot pans, you can expect to burn your fingers. As soon as Martha left, I stuck my hand in a bag of ice. But see how it’s worth it:
What We Ate:
Saturday: We went to the annual REACH Halloween party for our oldest son’s school. Basically it’s a bunch of highly gifted kids running around in ironic costumes, playing clever games and eating whimsically decorated desserts. A lot of fun, really. I made the boys swear they’d eat something healthy first, and they did–which shocked me. They ate quite a variety, too–California rolls, baked salmon, hummus, olives, fruit salad and other odds and ends. The hosts had an incredible view of Camelback Mountain from their back yard, so I grabbed a beer, sat down and enjoyed. We left a little early, but found out the next day that he’d won “most creative costume” for his Greek god of war costume. I swear you’d have thought he’d won an Oscar. I think he used the term, “overjoyed.”
Sunday: pumpkin soup and pumpkin crustless quiche
I baked two pie pumpkins with every intention of making pie, but when it became clear that the pie was not meant to be and I had nothing for dinner, I brought out the giant tub of pumpkin puree and set to work. Dinner was surprisingly not too pumpkinny–just really orange.
To cook the pumpkins, just cut them in half and scoop out the goo (yes, I roasted the seeds–with olive oil, chili powder and salt!). Then turn them upside down on a cookie sheet an put it in the oven. Pour in about 1/2 inch of water and cook until they’re soft. It took about 40 minutes, but it can take up to an hour.
An alternative I’ve yet to try is to cut the tops off as you would a jack-o-lantern, scoop everything out and just put it in the oven.
For the quiche, I just mixed the pumpkin, 6 eggs, some Swiss cheese, cream and salt and pepper, poured it in a greased pie pan and baked it about 1/2 hour at 400 degrees. It should be firm throughout, with a teeny tiny bit of jiggle in the middle. You’ll know when it’s lightly browned and fluffy.
Check out a recent Here and Now story on using fresh pumpkin–lots of great ideas including pumpkin seed and bacon brittle.
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon or so of Middle Eastern 7 Spice 1 tsp
½ tsp turemeric
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
3 cups pumpkin
1 box organic free-range chicken broth
2 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
1 cup cream
Salvadorean crema and cilantro to garnish
Saute onions and spices in butter, add pumpkin, stir, and whisk in broth–you may need more or less depending on how watery the squash is. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer on for ten minutes or so–I just left it simmer while I did a few chores. Stir in the brown sugar and the cream, tasting as you go. Bring soup just to boil and serve immediately. I was going to garnish it with the pumpkin seeds, but we ate them all.
Monday: green posole and corn tortillas
We’ve been wanting to make posole for a long time. Often when something is one of my favorite things, I’m afraid to make it. I guess I don’t want to ruin something I love.
I expected it to be hard to make–so I made it really hard to make. I’d heard somewhere that you had to pluck the little tops off each kernel of hominy (corn). I literally sat there for hours doing this. The hard little seeds wedged so far under my thumbnails, I still haven’t gotten them out.
When I told Martha, my neighbor and the best cook I know, she laughed at me. A lot. She said I should have asked her. She also said she’d show me how to make it right next time.
Really, it’s very simple–you can throw it in the crock pot and go about your day. Your whole house will smell good and you’ll have enough leftovers for at least one more meal.
You’ll need a bag of fresh nixtamal (corn) from Ranch Market. Check the date and get the freshest you can. While you don’t need to pick at each individual kernel, you do need to rinse it really, really well, and pick out any discolored or mushy pieces.
Then you simmer the nixtamal in a very large pot of water for about two hours.
While the corn is simmering, you can brown your pork pieces (you can use pretty much any cut) and add them to the pot. We used a tenderloin, which I would normally never do, but my mom gave us one and it just seemed right. Saute some minced garlic and diced jalapenos in some olive oil and add them to the pot. Sweat some chopped onions and add those. Then blacken 4-8 green chiles under the broiler, peel and dice them and add those to the pot. Cover with broth and cook on low.
When the hominy is done, add that to the crock pot too. Reserve the cooking liquid in case you need to add it to the stew (you probably will). I turned up the heat on the crock pot at this point.
Pat seasoned it with cumin, oregano, salt and pepper.
Cook another 4-8 hours. Serve with hot corn tortillas.
This worked really well, but we learned about the corn the hard way. We didn’t cook it for the two hours first and it was a little chewy. It was still delicious, but now I know that you have to cook the nixtamal a really long time. It will blossom when it’s done–very pretty.
I want to try it this way, with tomatillos and ground pumpkin seeds, next.
Tuesday: eggplant casserole–the usual
Wednesday: wild boar, black bean and sweet potato and cornbread
We needed a crock pot dinner for Halloween–and Pat had bought some ground wild boar from Sprouts that I had no idea what to with. He was on to something, though. He browned the meat and sautéed the onions, garlic and spices (cumin, chili powder and oregano) and put them in the crock pot with the beans (which I had remembered to soak the night before). He covered it with water and leftover broth and cooked about 4 hours. Then he added cubed sweet potato and cooked another two or three hours. We added a lot of salt and pepper to sort of balance the sweet. Some of us topped it with shredded cheddar cheese. It was a perfect pre-trick-or-treating meal.
Thursday: leftover posole, fresh tortillas
Nachos is a good desperation meal. We always have cheese. For nachos, it doesn’t even have to be good cheese. The chips, however, have to be good. Get a bag of the fresh chips by the pound at Pros Ranch Market. They’re the best for nachos (and pretty much everything else). Sometimes we add rinsed and drained canned beans or some browned meat before we put them in the oven, but usually it’s just cheese.
We only spent $48.12 at the farmers’ market (Maya’s and One Windmill) this week. Like last week, we couldn’t go to the Wednesday market, so we had to adjust. We spent about $65 at Sprouts (pat lost the receipts) and $78.00 at Ranch Market (the trip below plus one for nixtamal, chiles and cilantro). My mom gave me a pork loin, so we got to have lots of meat this week (yay!). Thanks Mom! Estimated Total: $191.00