Last week, our last week of vacation, we made our first cassoulet. In a total departure from the theme of this blog, we made the real thing, which included about $65 worth of meats. It was the ultimate holiday indulgence.
There’s a plethora of easy cassoulet recipes out there, but I wanted to try a traditional cassoulet so I’d have something with which to compare them.
We used a Mark Bittman recipe from The New York Times. And once again, Mark Bittman has lied. He said it wasn’t difficult. It was fun, though, even if it did turn into a four day project. The end result was more than worth it. It was sublime. Perfection. Joy.
If you want to try it, do it when you have some blocks of time every day for four or five days. Here’s the New York Times recipe we followed, broken down in a manageable schedule:
Days One and Two: Thaw the duck. We got ours at Hobe Meats. Get some good bread and let it get stale.
Day Three: Carve the duck and marinate the legs (over-night) and make the stock (if you don’t have time, you can make it early tomorrow, too). Early in the morning, thaw the lamb in the fridge (Our lamb was from Double Check Ranch–a new favorite of ours for hot dogs, beef and lamb. They have great meat.)
Day Four: If you have not already made the stock, do so early in the day so it has time to cool. Make the confit, make the beans (we got white beans from McClendon’s) and buy the andoulle sausage (we got ours from Whole Foods).
1 whole duck, 5 to 7 pounds
10 garlic cloves, smashed
10 sprigs fresh thyme
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
1 large onion, cut in half (don’t peel)
1 large carrot, cut in big chunks
2 celery ribs, cut in big chunks
1 bay leaf
Several sprigs fresh parsley
Reserved duck fat from stock
Olive oil as needed.
1. Set the duck breast-side up on a cutting board. Using a boning knife, cut along one side of the breastbone; keep the back of your knife flush against that bone and follow the curve, cutting with the tip of your knife and pulling the meat back as you go. (It’s actually a kind of natural movement; trust yourself.) When you meet up with the skin from the legs, cut through the skin and detach the breast. Repeat with the second breast. The legs are now easy to see.
2. One leg at a time, cut through the skin, pulling the leg back as you go. Bend the leg backward to crack the joint, then cut through the joint (it’s easy to see once you’ve cracked it); detach the leg. Repeat with the second leg. Remove the skin from the legs with your fingers, loosening it with your knife as necessary; reserve. Remove and reserve any fat you encounter.
3. Lightly score the skin of the duck breasts to make a diamond pattern; be careful not to cut all the way through to the meat. Sprinkle with salt, cover and refrigerate until ready to use in the cassoulet.
4. Toss the duck legs with the garlic (use more if your cloves are small), thyme, shallot and a few pinches of salt. Refrigerate and marinate the duck legs overnight.
5. Heat the oven to 350. Put the duck carcass, onion, carrot and celery in a roasting pan. Roast, turning every now and then until quite well browned. Take your time; it’ll take at least an hour.
6. Transfer the contents of the roasting pan to a large pot; pour off the rendered fat and reserve it. Add the bay leaf, parsley and about 10 cups of water to the pot, and turn the heat to high.
7. Bring just to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture sends up a few bubbles at a time. Cook, skimming and discarding any foam that accumulates, for at least 60 minutes and up to 2 hours. Cool slightly, then strain. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate the stock overnight. The next day, take the stock out of the refrigerator and remove the duck fat from the top; it will have solidified, and you’ll be able to scoop it right off.
8. Put the fat in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the fat melts and reaches about 190 degrees, add the duck legs along with the garlic and as much olive oil (or duck fat) as necessary to submerge the legs. Discard the thyme and shallot.
9. Cook, never letting the heat exceed 200 degrees, until the meat is tender and easily pierced with a fork, about 11/2 hours. Let cool, then store the duck in the fat in the refrigerator until you’re ready to use it in the cassoulet.
4 cups dried white beans
1/2 pound not-too-smoky slab bacon
Small bunch fresh parsley, leaves
chopped, stems saved
10 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole cloves
Salt and black pepper
1. Bring 5 quarts of water to a boil in a large saucepan and add the beans. Remove from heat and let soak for 1 hour.
2. Cut the bacon slab into 4 large chunks and cover in water in another saucepan; turn the heat to medium, and when the water boils, turn it down to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes.
3. Make a bouquet garni by combining the parsley stems, thyme, bay leaves and whole cloves in a piece of cheesecloth and tying it into a bundle. (I never use cheesecloth myself but turn to my old tea ball, which is around for only this purpose.) Add it, along with the bacon, to the beans; bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook, skimming occasionally, until the beans are just tender, 45 to 90 minutes. (Add water if necessary; ideally the beans will be moist but not swimming when they’re done.) Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Day Five: Cook the sausage, assemble cassoulet and sear the duck breasts.
1 pound boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
Reserved fat, as needed
2 medium onions, sliced
8 garlic cloves, peeled
2 cups duck stock, plus more as needed
4 cups chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 pound garlicky sausage, preferably in one piece
1 cup bread crumbs
2 boneless duck breasts.
4. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper. Put 3 tablespoons reserved duck fat in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the lamb and brown the pieces well. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 5 or 6 minutes; turn off heat.
5. Remove the duck confit from the refrigerator and scrape off the fat; debone and shred the meat. Add the meat and garlic cloves to the pot with the lamb, along with 2 cups duck stock, tomatoes, chopped garlic and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer; cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is very tender, 1 to 11/2 hours. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
6. When you’re ready to assemble the cassoulet, discard the bouquet garni. Cut the fat from the meat and cut the meat into small pieces.
7. Heat 2 tablespoons reserved duck fat in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, turning as necessary until well browned; transfer to a cutting board and slice into quarter-inch rounds; don’t wash out the pan.
8. Heat the oven to 375. Transfer a layer of beans to a large enameled cast-iron pot with a slotted spoon to leave behind most of the cooking liquid. Layer half of the sausage and bacon on top, then another layer of beans, then half the duck-and-lamb mixture; repeat the layers until you have used all the beans and meat.
9. Put the pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer, uncovered, then turn off heat. Cover with bread crumbs and chopped parsley leaves and bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
10. While the cassoulet is in the oven, put the skillet used for cooking the sausage over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, cook the duck breasts, skin-side down, until they release easily from the pan, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook to rare, just another minute or 2. Remove the duck from the pan with a slotted spoon and pour the drippings from the pan over the cassoulet; reduce oven heat to 350.
11. Bake the cassoulet until it’s hot, bubbling and crusted around the edges, 30 to 40 minutes; add a little duck stock if it starts to look too dry. Slice the duck breasts on the diagonal and transfer them to the pot, tucking them into the bread crumbs. Cook until the breasts are medium rare, another 5 minutes or so, then serve.
Days six and seven: Eat the leftovers, freeze the stock and save the extra beans, bread and sauce for white bean ragout.